A roll-in shower is designed to let someone using a wheelchair enter the shower without having to step over a raised curb or transfer into a traditional tub or shower. But removing the curb is only part of creating an accessible shower. A truly functional roll-in shower also needs enough maneuvering space, appropriate controls, safe seating, properly placed grab bars, and a drainage system that keeps water where it belongs.
At Century City Baths, we've remodeled hundreds of bathrooms across the Chicagoland area — from vintage bungalows in Berwyn and Jefferson Park to split-levels in Naperville and high-rise condos along the lakefront. Accessibility projects are some of the most rewarding work we do, because the difference between a bathroom that "sort of works" and one that genuinely works is the difference between dependence and independence.
Here's what you need to know before you start planning a wheelchair-accessible bathroom.
What Exactly Is a Roll-In Shower?
A roll-in shower (sometimes called a curbless or zero-threshold shower) has a shower floor that sits flush with the surrounding bathroom floor. There is no lip, no step, and no barrier. A wheelchair, shower chair, or rolling commode chair can move directly into the shower space.
This is different from a transfer shower, which is a smaller enclosure (typically 36" x 36") with a low threshold and a built-in seat, designed for someone who can transfer out of their chair but can't safely step over a tub wall. Transfer showers are a great option for many people — but if the user needs to remain seated in a wheeled chair during bathing, a roll-in is the right choice.
The distinction matters because it drives nearly every other decision in the room: square footage, plumbing layout, floor framing, and budget.
The Dimensions That Actually Matter
The ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) sets standards for public and commercial facilities. Private homes aren't legally required to meet ADA standards, but those guidelines are the best available benchmark — and we design to them whenever the space allows.
Shower interior: A standard roll-in shower should measure at least 60 inches wide by 30 inches deep, with the 60-inch dimension running parallel to the wall you enter from. Larger is better. When space permits, we recommend 60" x 36" or more, which gives a caregiver room to assist and allows the user to turn more comfortably.
Clear floor space outside the shower: You need a minimum of 30" x 60" of unobstructed floor directly adjacent to the shower entry so the user can position the chair before rolling in.
Turning space: The bathroom should accommodate either a 60-inch turning circle or a T-shaped turning space (a 60" x 60" square with arms at least 36" wide). This is the single most commonly overlooked requirement. A beautiful roll-in shower in a room where the chair can't turn around is a design failure.
Doorway: The bathroom door needs a minimum 32 inches of clear opening — and that's clear width with the door open at 90 degrees, not the nominal door size. A 32" door slab typically yields only about 30" clear once you account for the thickness of the door and stop. We usually specify a 36" door, and in tight Chicago-area homes we often convert to a pocket door or install offset (swing-clear) hinges to recover those critical inches.
Overall room size: A fully accessible bathroom generally needs 60 to 80 square feet minimum. Many older Chicagoland homes have bathrooms in the 35 to 45 square foot range, which is why accessible remodels here frequently involve borrowing space from an adjacent closet, hallway, or bedroom.
The Drainage Problem (And How We Solve It)
This is where roll-in showers succeed or fail. Without a curb, the only things keeping water in the shower are floor slope and smart drain placement.
Linear drains are our preferred solution for most roll-in showers. A linear drain is a long, narrow channel — typically installed along the back wall or at the shower entry — that allows the entire shower floor to slope in a single direction. This means you can use large-format tile instead of small mosaics, and the slope feels gentle underfoot and under wheels.
Center point drains require the floor to slope from four directions, creating a shallow bowl. This works, but it means smaller tiles and a slightly more pronounced pitch, which some wheelchair users find less stable.
Proper slope is between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch per foot. Too little and water pools. Too much and the chair wants to roll.
We also recommend:
- A secondary slope in the surrounding bathroom floor, pitching gently back toward the shower
- A trench or threshold drain at the shower entry as backup containment
- Oversized waterproofing — we extend waterproof membrane well beyond the shower footprint, typically across the entire bathroom floor and up the walls
- Generous overhead space — more shower area means more room for water to land and drain before it travels
The Chicagoland Framing Challenge
Here's the structural reality nobody tells you until demolition day: to create a flush shower floor, the shower pan has to be recessed into the floor structure. That requires either notching or sistering floor joists, or building up the surrounding floor.
In Chicago-area homes, this plays out differently depending on what you're working with:
Older homes with dimensional lumber joists (common in Oak Park, Evanston, Logan Square, and most pre-1950 construction) often have 2x8 or 2x10 joists running in a direction that may or may not cooperate. Sometimes we can drop the subfloor between joists; sometimes we need to add structural support below.
Homes on concrete slabs (many postwar ranches in the south and west suburbs) require either breaking and re-pouring a portion of the slab to reroute drainage, or raising the entire bathroom floor and adding a gentle transition ramp at the doorway.
Engineered I-joists and trusses (newer construction in places like Plainfield, Elgin, and South Elgin) generally cannot be notched or cut without engineering approval. These almost always require a raised-floor approach.
Condominiums and high-rises present their own issues — post-tension concrete slabs cannot be cut, period. In these buildings, we typically build the bathroom floor up by two to three inches and create a compliant transition at the entry, or we use a low-profile shower base system with a minimal 1/4" bevel.
None of these are dealbreakers. But they are the reason accessible bathroom remodels in this region need to start with an in-home structural assessment, not a showroom catalog.
Controls, Fixtures, and Reach Ranges
Shower controls should be mounted on the side wall nearest the entry, 38 to 48 inches above the floor, and positioned so they can be reached from outside the shower. This lets the user turn on the water and adjust temperature before entering — a small detail that prevents getting sprayed with cold water.
Lever handles or single-lever mixers are essential. Round knobs that require gripping and twisting are difficult or impossible for users with limited hand strength. Look for ADA-compliant lever or paddle controls.
Thermostatic or pressure-balancing valves are non-negotiable. These prevent sudden temperature spikes when a toilet flushes elsewhere in the house. We specify anti-scald valves set to a maximum of 120°F on every accessible project.
A handheld shower wand on a 60-inch minimum hose with a vertical slide bar is standard. The slide bar lets the user position the head at any height, and the handheld allows seated washing without contortion. We mount slide bars so the lowest position is reachable from a seated height of roughly 48 inches.
A second fixed showerhead is a nice addition if a caregiver assists, or if other household members use the same shower.
A shower seat, if used, should be 17 to 19 inches above the floor, with the top of the seat mounted so the user can transfer laterally from a chair at matching height. Folding wall-mounted seats save space; built-in tiled benches are more durable and more comfortable but consume floor area. If the user bathes in a rolling shower chair, you may not need a seat at all — but we often install a folding one anyway for flexibility and resale value.
Grab Bars: Placement Is Everything
Grab bars are only as good as the blocking behind them. A grab bar anchored to drywall anchors is worthless and dangerous.
During framing, we install continuous 2x10 or 3/4" plywood blocking across all shower walls and around the toilet area, between 32 and 48 inches above the floor. This means grab bars can be placed anywhere — and repositioned later as needs change — without opening walls again.
Standard placements for a roll-in shower:
- A horizontal bar on the back wall, 33 to 36 inches above the floor, running the full width
- Horizontal bars on both side walls at the same height
- A vertical bar near the entry to assist with positioning
- Bars should be 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" in diameter with 1-1/2" clearance from the wall
Every grab bar must support 250 pounds of force in any direction. Properly blocked and installed, they do.
Modern grab bars no longer look institutional. Brushed nickel, matte black, and brass finishes are widely available, and several manufacturers make grab bars disguised as towel bars, shelves, and shower corner caddies. We use these frequently — accessibility and good design are not mutually exclusive.
Flooring and Slip Resistance
The shower floor and surrounding bathroom floor should have a Dynamic Coefficient of Friction (DCOF) of 0.42 or higher when wet. Look for this rating on tile spec sheets.
Good options:
- Porcelain tile with a textured or matte finish — durable, waterproof, and available in wheelchair-friendly large formats
- Small-format mosaic with abundant grout lines — the grout provides grip, though it requires more maintenance
- Textured luxury vinyl tile (LVT) — warm underfoot, seamless when heat-welded, and increasingly popular for accessible baths
Avoid polished stone, glossy porcelain, and anything with a slick glaze. Also avoid heavily textured tile with deep relief, which can catch small front caster wheels.
Heated floors are a worthwhile upgrade in Chicago. Beyond comfort during February, radiant floor heat helps the shower area dry faster, reducing slip risk and mold potential.
Enclosures: Doors, Curtains, or Nothing
No enclosure at all (a wet room) is often the best solution. It eliminates every obstacle and maximizes maneuvering room. It requires a larger bathroom and excellent waterproofing, but it's the gold standard for accessibility.
Shower curtains on a ceiling-mounted or wall-mounted track are the most practical enclosure for most roll-in showers. They push aside completely, cost little, and can be replaced easily. Weighted curtains help contain spray.
Glass doors are generally a poor fit. Swinging doors require clearance that eats into turning space, and sliding doors leave a track at floor level — which defeats the purpose of a curbless entry. If glass is a priority, a fixed glass panel (a "splash guard") combined with an open entry can provide a sense of enclosure without obstruction.
Don't Forget the Rest of the Room
An accessible shower in an inaccessible bathroom isn't much help.
Sink and vanity: The sink should have knee clearance of at least 27 inches high, 30 inches wide, and 11 to 25 inches deep. Wall-mounted sinks and open-front vanities both work. Insulate or cover exposed drain and supply pipes to prevent burns on legs the user may not be able to feel. Faucets should be lever or touchless. Mount the mirror with its bottom edge no more than 40 inches above the floor, or use a tilting mirror.
Toilet: Comfort-height toilets (17 to 19 inches to the seat) make transfers dramatically easier. Leave at least 60 inches of clear floor measured from the side wall, and 56 inches minimum from the back wall. Install grab bars on the side wall (42" long, 12" from the back wall) and rear wall (36" long). A bidet seat or washlet can significantly increase independence and is one of the highest-value additions we install.
Storage: Keep frequently used items between 15 and 48 inches above the floor — the standard reach range for a seated user. Pull-out drawers beat deep cabinets. Open shelving beats both.
Lighting: Layer it. Overhead, vanity-level, and a shower-rated recessed fixture. Use rocker switches or motion sensors instead of toggle switches, mounted no higher than 48 inches.
Ventilation: A roll-in shower produces more airborne moisture than a conventional one because there's no enclosure. Size your exhaust fan generously — we typically specify 1 CFM per square foot of bathroom area, minimum, with a humidity-sensing switch. In Chicago's climate, where bathrooms stay closed up for months, this matters.
Permits, Codes, and Local Considerations
Accessible bathroom remodels in the Chicagoland area generally require permits for plumbing relocation and electrical work. Requirements vary significantly by municipality — Chicago, Evanston, Naperville, Schaumburg, and Oak Park all have their own processes and inspection schedules.
A few local notes:
- Chicago requires licensed plumber sign-off on all drain relocations and has specific venting requirements
- Condo and co-op buildings typically require board approval, proof of contractor insurance, and often an engineer's letter for any floor modification
- Older homes may trigger requirements to update galvanized supply lines or add GFCI protection when walls are opened
- Historic districts in areas like Oak Park and Evanston may have review requirements if any exterior work (like venting) is involved
We handle permitting on every project. It's not optional, and an unpermitted bathroom remodel will surface at resale.
What It Costs and How Long It Takes
Every project is different, but here's a realistic range for the Chicagoland market:
- Basic roll-in shower conversion within an existing bathroom footprint, no structural changes: $18,000 – $30,000
- Full accessible bathroom remodel with structural floor work, relocated fixtures, and quality finishes: $32,000 – $55,000
- Bathroom expansion — taking space from an adjacent room, adding square footage: $55,000 – $85,000+
Timeline typically runs three to five weeks for a standard accessible remodel, longer if structural work or custom glass is involved. We maintain a single-bathroom household's ability to function during construction wherever possible, and we can discuss temporary solutions during the planning phase.
Financial assistance to investigate: Illinois has several programs worth exploring, including the Home Accessibility Program through some local Centers for Independent Living, VA Home Improvements and Structural Alterations (HISA) grants and Specially Adapted Housing (SAH) grants for qualifying veterans, and certain Medicaid waiver programs. Some modifications may also qualify as deductible medical expenses — consult your tax professional. We're happy to provide the documentation these programs require.
Planning for the Future
A surprising number of our accessible bathroom clients aren't currently using wheelchairs. They're homeowners in their fifties and sixties who are remodeling anyway and want to do it once, correctly.
This is smart. The incremental cost of adding blocking behind walls, specifying a 36" door, choosing a comfort-height toilet, and installing a curbless shower during a planned remodel is modest. The cost of doing it reactively — after an injury, surgery, or diagnosis — is far higher, both financially and emotionally.
Universal design features we recommend on virtually every remodel, accessible or not:
- Blocking in all bathroom walls for future grab bars
- Curbless or low-threshold shower entry
- Lever-handle faucets and door hardware
- A handheld shower on a slide bar
- Non-slip flooring
- Comfort-height toilet
- Adequate lighting at multiple levels
- Rocker switches
None of these read as "medical." All of them make the bathroom better for everyone, at every age.
Let's Talk About Your Bathroom
Designing a wheelchair-accessible bathroom is a technical project with a deeply personal purpose. The measurements matter. The structural details matter. But what matters most is understanding how the specific person using this room moves, what they can do independently, where they need help, and how their needs may change.
Century City Baths has been serving homeowners throughout Chicago and the surrounding suburbs — Cook, DuPage, Lake, Will, and Kane counties — with full-service bathroom design and remodeling. Our team includes installers trained in accessible construction and designers experienced with ADA guidelines and universal design principles.
We'll come to your home, take real measurements, assess your floor structure, listen to what you actually need, and give you a straightforward plan and a firm price. No pressure, no high-pressure sales presentation, no vague estimates that balloon mid-project.
Contact Century City Baths today to schedule your free in-home accessibility consultation. Let's build a bathroom that gives you — or someone you love — back a little independence.
